Thursday 5 August 2010

Suilven

Saturday 5th June 2010 

Once again I had stunning weather for this holiday, and a stunning mountain to climb in lovely, warm weather, Suilven. This huge monolith of a mountain dominates the scene for miles around and is distinctively seen from the village of Lochinver. It may not be up to Munro status but in this area of few mountains it stands out and is in fact considered to be one of the best mountains in Scotland. Passing through Lochinver I parked at the end of the public road into Glencanisp. From there I walked along a fabulous track, past Glencanisp Lodge and through a gorgeous valley with gorse and bluebells lining the way before heather took over higher up. When I started the walk I couldn’t see Suilven as it was hidden behind the morning mist, but it wasn’t long before a huge scary looking shape started to appear through the clouds. As I drew alongside the enormous whale-back mountain the mist cleared sufficiently to reveal the awe-inspiring spectacle that I was going to be walking up. 

After crossing the river just before Loch na Gainimh I took a path that climbs across the moor past several small lochs to the foot of Suilven where I began to climb the steep slope. Eventually and after a lot of effort, I reached Bealach Mór, which is the lowest point on the ridge of Suilven. From there I climbed along the top of the ridge to the summit, Caisteal Liath, which is a surprisingly wide grassy plain. A little distance from the summit cairn is a flat slab of rock that sticks up into the air and makes a great backrest for the best seat in the world. From this vantage point I enjoyed extensive views across the whole area, looking out to sea and down on the wisps of cloud in the valley. I had my lunch while sitting on this throne-like seat and gazing across the amazing terrain of Sutherland where the mountains are few but the lochs are many. Returning to the saddle I climbed along the eastern ridge as far as I could go, though I only actually reached the first col. I could have gone further but I didn't want to. Like many of the mountains that I had encountered on this holiday, Suilven is a Torridonian Sandstone mountain with ridiculously steep sides and rock pinnacles on top. The eastern end of the mountain requires some rock climbing that I just wasn’t in favour of trying. These Torridon-esque mountains may be stunning to look at, but they terrified me. I never thought I had vertigo until this holiday. Fortunately, unlike Stac Pollaidh the previous day, the summit of this mountain is attainable by mere humans such as me. I can’t help comparing Suilven with Stac Polly, but it is easily the superior. In some ways it is like a bigger brother to Stac Polly; it’s certainly higher, but the rocks are not as shattered and it has only several tops rather than the innumerable tops of its lesser brother. Like all the Torridonian Sandstones there is a steep climb to the ridge but once there it isn’t too difficult to reach the summit so that even cowards like me can get there. After returning to Bealach Mor I reluctantly started to descend the steep hillside back down to the loch-scattered moor at the bottom. All that was now left for me to do was to walk slowly back down the valley in the warm weather past inviting lakes and moorland flowers in a plenty, with the might of Suilven itself behind me basking in the sunlight, like the prow of a battleship. This was a wonderful walk not just because of the fantastic mountain in the middle of the walk, but for the relaxing stroll through a picturesque valley where the view of Suilven dominates the scene. For any other walk the necessity of having a long walk in to the mountain would detract from the experience, but on this occasion and in this weather it adds to it. The path is a well-made stalkers' track that is always dry and passes through a valley that was a delightful place to walk through and always with the view of Suilven enticied me forward with every step. Back at Achmelvich Beach Youth Hostel the weather was great and the views across the bay were idyllic. This is such a wonderful area I was so gutted to be only staying there for two nights rather than my originally intended four nights. I spent that evening on the rocks overlooking the bay while reading a book and taking pictures of the stunning surroundings. My holiday would not get any better than this.

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